How to use a ring clamp
A ring clamp is extremely helpful in holding a ring or other jewelry items while filing it or mounting gems in it. The wedge shoved into the opposite end of the clamp keeps the jaws securely on the jewelry placed in them. The jaws should be leather lined to prevent marring of the jewelry. One end of the clamp is rounded and the other end is squared and both can be used. May 01, · What is a ring clamp? Traditionally, ring clamps are used for holding rings while polishing or filing, though they can hold other items such as a piece of metal. They are braced against the bench pin with one hand to provide a secure and safe way to hold rings, and other items, whilst working on them.
For jewellery makers, they are particularly useful for holding tiny pieces when filling, sanding, forming or polishing. Find out how to use rinng ring clamp and which one is right for your projects below. Traditionally, ring clamps are used for holding rings while polishing or filing, though they cla,p hold other items such as a piece of metal. They are braced against the bench pin with one hand to provide a secure and safe way to hold rings, and other items, whilst working on them.
They also allow you to move the piece around without having to touch it, which is ideal if your hands are dirty from previous work or you need to keep your fingers out rinb the way of sharp tools or nicks on the metal. Most adjustable ring clamps also have replaceable leather or felt pads inside the jaws to protect your piece from any scratches.
Wooden clamps are lightweight and therefore suitable for a range of jewellery making techniques and projects. Some of the most common uses for ring clamping in jewellery making are:. For example, if you file a channel in the tip of coamp clamp, you can lock it in place in the bench peg to provide stable support while you work and avoid it slipping. With a range of options to choose from, it can be whxt to know which one is right for you.
Each jeweller has a preference on which one they use depending on how they like to work, while some jewellers stick to how to mix pastry dough they know and have used the same clamps throughout their careers. We have outlined some of the most common types of wooden ring clamps below to help you make your choice. The ring clamp hinge and wedge works on a hinged principle that moves with a seesaw motion, and comes with a separate wedge that is used to hold the ring in place at the other end.
Removing the wedge allows for the two halves to move freely from the pivoted point in the centre. To clamp your ring, place it vertically between what type of smart are you felt tips and gently how to use co2 tablets in grow room the wedge in at the opposite end. This will then tighten the felt ends securely around the ring.
What is a ring clamp release, move the wedge. This type of clamp comes with two shaped edges. The round jaw is typically used for rings and curved pieces, while the straight jaw is used for shapes with straight sides. A ring clamp with a side screw is hinged at the bottom with a rnig nut on the side and a spring mechanism in the middle. This type of clamp holds the ring vertically between the two leather pads.
To tighten and release the pads around the ring, simply turn the wing nut screw on the side of the clamp. Although for some jewellers, the side screw often gets in the way while they work — so the screw base may be another choice. Sectioned in quarters along the length with a metal core running through the middle, this clamp is designed in a tapered cone shape. To use a ring clamp with a screw baseyou place the ring around the what is a ring clamp with the screw unturned.
As you turn the screw, the metal core will move down forcing the clamp to expand and hold the ring in place. GRS also produce a metal clamp that works under the same principle. Use the nut on the bottom to both loosen and tighten the jaws and secure your piece in place. This clamp can also be used in conjunction with the GRS Benchmate system that attaches to the front of your workbench.
For many jewellers this is an ideal choice as it gives full access to the piece with both hands, making it perfect for more detailed and clam designs. While this is the more expensive choice, it is beneficial for those who frequently work with rings — particularly on stone setting and engraving. Whether you struggle to keep your pieces still as you work, or you need to keep your hands free for more delicate designs, we offer a selection of vice and clamping equipment suitable for a range of jewellery projects.
Choosing your ring clamp With a range of options to choose from, it can be difficult to know which one is right for you. How to use a ring clamp with side screw A ring clamp with a rinv screw is hinged at the bottom with a wing nut on the side and a spring mechanism in the middle.
How to use a ring clamp with screw base Sectioned in quarters along the length with a metal core running through the middle, this clamp is designed in a tapered cone shape.
Discover our range of GRS jewellery tools to build your Benchmate system today. Find quality ring clamp tools at Cooksongold Whether you struggle to keep your pieces still as you work, or you need to keep your hands free for more delicate designs, we offer a selection of vice and clamping equipment suitable for vlamp range of jewellery projects. Written by Cooksongold. Related Guides.
Silversmithing Silver jewellery making — Everything you need to know. Silversmithing How to Silver Plate Jewellery. Silversmithing How to Work with Sheet Metal. First Name. Share this post.
Ring Clamps. Ring clamps connect to a ring stand. They come in several sizes and have a multitude of uses: holding a separatory funnel during an extraction, support for a heating mantle, or supporting a glass funnel in gravity filtration. You can add pieces of cut tygon tubing to the ring to serve as a cushion for separatory funnels. Often tape is wrapped around them for the same reason (note the black ring . Ring clamps are usually thick metal rods that are bent into a circle at one end and have a screwing attachment on the other end in order to connect to ring stands. . Choose from our selection of ring clamps, including clamps for firm hose and tube, shaft collars, and more. In stock and ready to ship.
Clamps have a slotted screw. Tighten with a slotted screwdriver, hex nut driver, or a wrench. A raised safety collar around the head of the screw prevents your screwdriver from slipping and damaging the hose or tube. A thumb screw instead of a slotted screw allows you to install these clamps without any tools. One clamp fits a wide range of diameters, so you can always have the right size on hand.
Here's everything you need to make your own 3" diameter and larger custom-length worm-drive clamps. Not as bulky as our other constant-tension clamps, these round-wire clamps easily fit in cramped spaces. Use in low-pressure applications. Clamps have a spring that automatically adjusts the clamp diameter when temperatures fluctuate. These clamps have a wider band than other constant-tension clamps, which provides more coverage and reduces the chance of leaks.
These clamps are easier to install than worm-drive clamps— crimp the pinch points with pinch-clamp pincers for a secure hold. They are also known as ear clamps. These pinch clamps come packed in a box with individual compartments for each clamp size.
Easier to install than worm-drive clamps, crimp the pinch points with pinch-clamp pincers for a secure hold. Unlike other pinch clamps, these have a unique tongue-and-groove design that creates a gap-free seal to reduce leaks. Unlike vibration-resistant pinch clamps, these have a torque rating for extra holding power in high-vibration applications.
They are also known as high-torque clamps. Clamps offer extra holding power in high-torque applications. A double ring of thick wire provides a complete seal around large-diameter hose.
Installing these clamps is a snap— push their interlocking teeth together with your fingers, then squeeze tight with pliers. To remove, use pliers to push sideways and separate the teeth.
Clamps have a slotted hex-head screw that flips up to release the band for quick opening. Also known as center-punch clamps, they seal with a quick hammer blow to the buckle. They are also known as JS-style clamps. Keep this banding on hand for both permanent connections and emergency repairs.
You'll need an installation tool and a buckle both sold separately to create a band clamp. Designed for both permanent connections and emergency repairs, use these buckles with banding to create your own low-profile hose clamps. Slide these clamps over your hose and heat-shrink them with a heavy duty heat gun. This process lets them conform to any shape hose. Clamps have a smooth band with rolled edges to prevent them from cutting into your hose or tube.
Clamps come packed in a box with individual compartments for each clamp size. An extended tail acts as a liner to protect soft hose and tube from being cut by the slots in the band. Create 2" diameter and larger smooth-band worm-drive clamps. Create 4" diameter and larger worm-drive clamps that withstand high-temperature applications.
Remove the bolt and flip open the hinged bridge to install. Flip up the slotted hex head screw to quickly release the band. A dimple in the ear creates spring-like action that allows these clamps to withstand vibration and temperature changes without loosening.
Don't worry about your hose and tube expanding and contracting when temperatures fluctuate— these clamps have a Bellville spring that automatically increases and decreases the clamp's diameter. Flip the toggle latch to install and remove these clamps in seconds. Unlike other duct hose clamps, these are rated for a maximum work load. Clamps have a quick-release latch that lets you access your line frequently while maintaining your original clamp size.
Also known as bridge clamps, these worm-drive clamps align with the spiral support on wire-duct hose to provide a tight seal. Cover the band end or T-bolt end of hose and tube clamps from cutting people and nearby objects. Connect quick-clamp sanitary tube fittings— also known as aseptic fittings— for a fast and easy way to access your line.
The smooth finish inside these stainless steel quick-clamp fittings makes it easy to remove product residue. Connect extra-support quick-clamp fittings for a fast and easy way to access your line. Also known as I-line fittings, the flanged end of the male adapter on these high-polish fittings interlocks with the flanged end of the female adapter to provide extra support to your line.
Polished to a 20 Ra finish, these fittings have an extra-smooth interior that prevents product buildup and inhibits bacteria growth. Connect quick-clamp fittings in high-vacuum applications. Use these rings with quick-clamp high-vacuum fittings. Also known as KF, QF, and NW fittings, these fittings are for high-vacuum applications, such as vacuum coating and heat treating, leak testing, and analyzing gases. An alternative to bolt-together fittings, these handle larger tube OD sizes and have higher vacuum ratings than quick-clamp fittings.
Also known as ISO-K high-vacuum fittings, the clamps have claws that grab hold of fittings with flanged ends. Connect claw-clamp high-vacuum fittings for an airtight seal. For high -vacuum systems with tube sizes too large for quick-clamp KF fittings, choose these bolt-together fittings. Repair pinholes, punctures, and cracks in low-pressure systems with these clamps.
Insert tubing into the clamp and tighten the bolts to create a secure seal. Use these clamps with quick-clamp fittings for dairy to quickly connect and disconnect your line as needed. A turn of the T-handle will tighten and loosen these connectors, so you can quickly disassemble and reassemble your lines without tools. Connect two pipes that are up to feet apart— cut the connector to the length you need and attach a clamp to each end.
These connectors are for use in low-pressure air and vacuum conveying systems, as well as in gravity-flow systems. Also known as no-hub couplings, these have a one-piece sleeve with a stop in the center, so you know your pipe is always aligned correctly.
Use in medium-pressure applications up to psi. Use in high-pressure applications up to psi. Use in high-pressure applications up to 1, psi. Elevate hose off the ground to protect it from damage, and to let water on the floor reach a drain. These metal collars are stronger than plastic shaft collars. Suitable for use in washdown applications, these plastic collars also offer good chemical resistance.
Customize the bore of these collars to precisely fit your shaft. Use a wrench to rotate your drive shaft without marring or gouging the shaft. With larger screws than those found on standard clamping collars, these provide a stronger grip on your shaft without using additional screws. Make quick adjustments to these shaft collars with a lever on the side. Wider than standard shaft collars with twice the number of clamping screws, these ensure a better grip for greater holding power.
Although these collars fit inch-sized shafts, they have a metric OD and width for use with metric equipment. Tighten the set screw to bite into an unhardened shaft for a secure hold. Installing and removing a collar is as easy as pushing down and lifting up a clamp lever. A threaded lever lets you tighten these collars with more torque than other quick-release styles, ensuring that they stay put on your shaft.
Internal ball bearings allow you to slide a collar onto your shaft in one direction and then automatically lock the collar in place in the opposite direction.
With larger clamping screws than those found on standard clamping collars, these provide a stronger grip on your shaft without using additional screws. Formed to offset the weight of the clamping screw, these collars won't wobble or vibrate when shafts are spinning— even at high speeds.
An embedded sleeve squeezes the shaft as you tighten the clamping screws, allowing these collars to handle up to three times the thrust load of standard collars. One side of these collars locks down like a standard one-piece shaft collar; the other has a flush face that's flat to 0.
Two knurled sides provide micrometer-like movement for precise width adjustments. These collars have one knurled side that lets you adjust their width. Keep these shaft collars in place by tightening their set screw into the shaft. Made of chemical-resistant nylon, these collars are suitable for washdown applications.
Offering the benefits of a two-piece collar in a one-piece design, these collars swing open for positioning then close anywhere on your shaft. Secure items to either side of these collars— each half has a flat end with a tapped hole.
Mount items to either half of these collars and quickly adjust their position on shafts with a lever on the side. The two halves separate, so you can install them anywhere on a shaft without removing components or having access to the end.
Mount these collars flush against each other or attach components to either side— the round body has flattened ends with tapped holes.
Attach items to tapped holes at either end of these collars and twist the lever to quickly move them along shafts. Two tapped holes on the face of these collars allow you to fasten them to gears, pulleys, and sprockets. These collars have two different sides— one locks down like a standard clamping shaft collar; the other has a flush face that you can machine to add slots, holes, and grooves to match your special setups.
Three tapped counterbored holes and three through-holes provide mounting flexibility. Install these collars anywhere on a shaft without removing components or having access to the ends of the shaft. To install, slide these one-piece collars onto the end of your shaft. Slide these one-piece collars onto the end of your shaft to create an end-stop for linear components.
To install, thread these one-piece collars onto the end of your shaft.