How to Make Your Own Dress Form: A Step by Step Guide
Ok, so two recommendations for your dress form: 1) when you make your plaster mold, make it in two halves. Coat your body in vaseline to allow the plaster to release, and then after wrapping the front of your body, coat about " of the front half edges in vaseline before wrapping the back half. This avoids the entire risk of cutting the pieces away from your body, but make sure you're thorough so that you . Sep 28, · Place batting around the top of your dress form to protect the PVC from damaging your DIY dress form. Tie string around batting. Insert stand into dress form. Stuff additional batting, newspaper or other stuffing material to ensure that the stand stays firmly in place.
Also it will make the whole thing smoother. You could also use an electric sander with very light sandpaper. The problem is that the foam is so porous that even when you sand it, the surface is not smooth. At least, that was the case with this type how to make a good video game walkthrough foam. Ok, so two recommendations for your 3. Coat your body in vaseline to allow the plaster to release, and then after wrapping the front of your body, coat about 1.
This avoids the entire risk of cutting the pieces away from your body, but make sure you're thorough so that you don't get stuck into the pieces. Once the two halves come off the body and have dried a bit, you can use more plaster strips to reconnect the two halves into one whole.
To make the foam release from the mold easier, coat it with Johnson's wax, by the time you have put the mold together for foaming will be plenty of time for the wax to set.
When I make molds e. I spray silicone spray on the inside of the mold. That way things come out easily since hardly anything sticks to silicone. Very inspiring project! I might have to convince my boyfriend to help me with it Very interesting tutorial. I'm a how to make a body form stand body, so a good quality dress form costs even more for me.
I like the suggestion that you coat the inside of the form with a slurry of plaster while BEFORE you join it together. I also like the idea of using more plaster strips to join it instead of sewing. You've inspired me to try making my own. Hey I have been wanting to follow your Dress Form DIY for a while, but the one thing How to wash formal shirts am having a hard time understanding is how the yarn was used to keep the plaster mold from touching the PVC pipe?
The yarn is strung through the top T of the stand and attached to the lower edge of the mold's armhole so that the shoulders of the mold are not touching the top of the T. I wanted to avoid the plastic of the stand being right at the surface of the shoulders so I could pin into the shoulders when needed. I hope that helps! It was the most confusing part to try to show and explain!
Okay, cool. Thank you! I am actually just now working on gathering materials to make my own dress form. Post a Comment. The first step is to build yourself a PVC pipe stand. I'm sure there are better ways to do this that might involve wheels on the bottom, but this works pretty well for me.
Here is a picture of the stand I built:. I used yarn but you can use any kind of decently strong string to hang my form on the T bar of my stand so that the shoulders of the mold were not actually resting on the bar. That way there will be foam all the way around the frame which makes the form stronger and also allows you to stick pins into the shoulder area when you need to. At this point I made my leg molds using the same process I used for the torso.
Disclaimer: I look a bit rough in these pics. Not only was it late at night, but I was a little bit light headed from standing with my knees locked for too long. Take warning! My husband did the wrapping, and I have to warn you- it was difficult getting out of them. We used an exacto blade and scissors. I do not suggest this. I DO suggest that you use bandage scissors like you are supposed to.
I did get cut just a little bit not badly at all, thankfully, but it could have been much worse and I do not how to make a rag rug out of old t-shirts you to accidentally slice yourself.
I also traumatized my husband by forcing him to cut me out with said exacto blade as quickly as possible before I passed out. Really, be careful- I did feel like I was on the verge of fainting by the time these things dried enough to cut them. Now the next part was joining the legs to the torso. This I did not think through very well when I made the torso part of the mold. I recommend wrapping the torso to your underwear line and under the crotch so the leg molds connect cleanly to the diy how to paint furniture. However, I did the best I could and stitched my leg molds into the torso mold with waxed linen and a curved needle.
The one really obvious mistake I made is that when I connected the legs to the torso, I did not pay careful enough attention to the angle of the hip joint connection, and thus my mold ended up looking like it was leaning forward a little at the hips, which you will be able to see in pictures of the side view of the form.
Now we come to filling the form with foam. This is what my mold looked like after it was totally filled up:. It's flexible after it dries, which results in the form having just a tiny bit of cushiness. It feels and behaves a bit more like a real body that way, though I don't think it's technically that important, as long as you use a foam that you can stick your pins in.
This stuff expands like crazy. Start by spraying a little bit down into the bottom of your mold and letting it expand and solidify for at least 20 minutes before adding more.
If too much foam is sprayed at the same time, the weight of it will prevent all the foam from expanding correctly and completely drying.
It was tricky getting the foam all the way down into the legs. I ended what do you believe constitutes a good design poking holes at various points up the legs to insert the little spray straw, and that worked.
You want to avoid bubbles as much as possible. Once the foam starts to set, you can pretty much feel if you have bubbles or not by pressing around the surface of the mold. Take your time with this process and let each addition of foam really set before you add more. You may find little holes and gaps as you remove the mold. When that happens, just stop and squirt a little more foam into the bubble and let it fill up before you completely pull off the mold.
So the obvious question is how many cans of foam did it take? And this is bad, but I can't remember. I think it might have been about 6 cans. If you are only doing a torso and no legs, it definitely won't take as many. Luckily these cans are not very expensive- 6 bucks a piece. It's probably better to buy more than not enough at once. You can return any unused cans as long as you leave the seal on.
Once the whole mold is completely filled, let it really dry for a good long time before you attempt to remove your mold. Removing the mold is a huge process in itself.
There may be a way to coat the inside of your mold so that it slips off, but I have not found that way. What I had to do in the end was to pry off sheets of the plaster bandage and use a small jab saw to trim off the pieces I couldn't pull off. That sounds really hard and nasty to do. It wasn't really that bad, except that it what is the answer to the giraffe riddle very, very messy and tedious. Be prepared to spend more than one sitting doing this mold removal.
Also make sure you put a big sheet or tarp under the form before you do the foam filling and mold removal. I had to use the saw to do a lot of shaping and trimming where the leg molds joined to the torso mold, and trimmed a bit in other places where needed.
You can always refer to your body measurements to see if you need to do extra trimming anywhere. Finally, in the end, this is what I got:. How to make a body form stand just beautiful, is it not??
My cat Albert thought so. You can see that the surface of the foam is really rough. This definitely shows when you put fabric over it. Sanding will not solve this problem. A fabric cover is essential for this mold, and I first sewed a cover of quilt batting that did a great job of smoothing the whole surface. I'll show you how to do that in the next installment.
For now, I'm going to bed! And I suggest that YOU take a little peek into Katastrophic world to get some inspiration and see some of the little pretties I've made with the help of this dress form! Newer Post Older Post Home. Subscribe to: Post Comments Atom.
How to make a paper mache dress form that is taped:
This quick and easy method of form making uses ordinary duct tape as both the body-casting material and the final form. Close-Fit Duct-Tape Dress Form This take on the duct-tape method for making a dress form is a bit more difficult than our quick and easy method but provides a closer fit. Mar 14, · Instructions for How to Create Your Own Body Form. Note: If you are making this body form for yourself, you are going to need some help in creating it, as you will be the “model” in the instructions. 1. Wrap Saran wrap around the base of your model’s, or your own, neck. (This will prevent you from getting duct tape on the neck). 2. Feb 14, · How to make a duct tape dress form: This type of form is quick and easy to make and is fairly inexpensive. You will need: A willing model, a long t-shirt for them, plenty of duct tape, scissors, plastic wrap, thick black pen. Process: Have your model stand comfortably, wearing the long t .
Last Updated: September 28, References Approved. This article was co-authored by our trained team of editors and researchers who validated it for accuracy and comprehensiveness. There are 13 references cited in this article, which can be found at the bottom of the page. This article has been viewed 69, times. Learn more Ever needed a mannequin for your latest sewing project?
Real mannequins can be expensive, and even the fancy, adjustable ones aren't guaranteed to be an exact body double for you. Luckily, it is both easy and cheap to make a mannequin at home.
Best of all, you can be sure that the mannequin will be an exact replica of your body. This means that any garments you sew on the mannequin will fit you like a glove! Then, have someone cut the shirt off your body, seal the cut ends with a strip of duct tape, and stuff it with polyester stuffing. After that, tape cardboard pieces to cover the top and bottom of the mannequin and secure it to a metal stand.
Tips and Warnings. Things You'll Need. Related Articles. Article Summary. Part 1 of Put on an old, fitted shirt you don't mind ruining. Make sure that the shirt conforms to your torso without too many wrinkles. Also, make sure that the shirt comes down to your hips. Don't wear a baggy t-shirt as it will create too much bulk. You will cover it with tape an cut it up.
Cover your neck and collar area with plastic wrap. Tear off a sheet of plastic wrap and fold it until it's the same height as your neck. Gently wrap it around your neck. Tuck the two ends under the front color of your shirt so that no skin is showing. You will eventually be taping up your neck as well, so you need to protect the delicate skin there. Wrap a strip of duct tape around your torso, just under you breasts. Make sure that you wrap it firmly so that it conforms to your figure, but not so tightly that you can't breathe.
You will need to have someone help you during this step, and for the rest of the steps in this part. Cross two pieces of tape across the front of your chest. Lay down one piece of tape so that it goes from your left shoulder down to the underside of your right breast. Lay down a second piece of tape so that it goes from your right shoulder down to the underside of your left breast. You should be left with an X-shape, with the center being between your breasts.
Continue adding tape across the shoulders, breast, and back area. Lay down a strip of tape across your left shoulder. Bring one end down across your left breast towards the horizontal strip of tape. Bring the other end down across your back. Continue adding strips of tape until you reach the edge of your shoulder. Repeat this step for the right shoulder and breast. Fill in the gaps under your armpit. Tear off smaller strips of tape. Lift up your arms, and lay them down across your ribcage horizontally.
Be sure to cover the gape between your armpit and the horizontal strip of tape. Fill in the gaps on your back and chest. You should now have a V-shaped gape on your chest and back. Tear off more strips of tape, and lay them across your back and chest. If you have a low-cut shirt, make sure that your chest is covered by plastic wrap or paper towel.
Wrap the tape around your neck. Wrap 1 to 2 strips of tape loosely around your neck. Wrap more tape around your waist down to the bottom of the shirt. Stop when you reach the bottom hem of your shirt. Part 2 of Cut up the back of your duct tape shirt.
Have a person you trust help you cut down the back of your duct tape shirt, from bottom to top. Make sure that they cut through the duct tape, shirt, and plastic wrap layers. Take the shirt off. You should now have a body-double made out of duct tape. If anything became dented on the mannequin during this step, such as a beast, use your fingers to gently push it back out.
Seal the gap with a strip of duct tape. Place the cut ends together so that they match up. Cover them with a strip of duct tape to seal the gap. Touch up the top and bottom edges, if desired. Take a look at the top and bottom edges of the mannequin. If you are happy with them, leave them be. If they look ragged or jagged, touch them up with more tape.
Consider cutting the top edge of the neck down at a slight, downward angle to mimic a real mannequin. Make sure that you still have some neck left, however! Stuff the shirt with polyester stuffing.
If you need to, cover the neck hole with a few strips of duct tape so that the stuffing doesn't come out the other end. Keep stuffing until the mannequin feels full and firm. You will need about two bags of polyester stuffing. Part 3 of Trace the base of the mannequin onto cardboard or foam board. Stand the mannequin upright on a sheet of cardboard of foam board. Trace around the mannequin using a marker. This will eventually make the bottom of your mannequin.
Cut the base out using a box cutter or craft blade. Make sure that you cut just inside the lines that you drew. Make your cuts smooth and precise. Tape the base to the bottom of the mannequin. Turn the mannequin upside down. Set the cardboard base into the bottom of the mannequin. Fold short pieces of duct tape over the edges of the cardboard onto the bottom edge of the mannequin. If you want to, you can cover the entire bottom of the cardboard with more duct tape so that it matches the rest of your mannequin.
Cover the top of the mannequin using the same method as you did for the base.