Helpful Hints for Refinishing Hardwood Floors
Apr 11, · First, start by sanding your raw hardwood to leave microabrasions in the wood's surface. To level off the surface, apply Minwax® Sanding Sealer, which will take about an hour to dry. After drying, sand and vacuum up any loose dust. Next, apply Minwax® Super Fast-Drying Polyurethane for Floors. Sand the outer perimeter of the room were the edger and hand scraping was performed. Sweep the floor clean. Load the buffing machine with a driving pad and grit screen. The buffing machine is used to blend the different types of sanding performed on the floor. Start by screening the outer perimeter of .
By Joe Provey. Hardwood floor refinishing and sanding is unforgiving work. Make a mistake, and it will show. However, a refinished floor can bring beauty to a room like no other project. Doing it yourself can save at least half of that. Check out some helpful tips about how to refinish hardwood floors below. Here we will dive into the materials, work, yardwood process to finisb hardwood floors, including:.
Read on for some helpful tips about refinishing hardwood floors if you are ready to tackle this home improvement project! Random orbital sanders are the best choice for do-it-yourself hardwood floor refinishing. They take longer to remove old finishes than drum sanders, but they do not require a lot of experience to use and are less likely how to meet french men online damage your wood floor.
With a random orbital sander, you can move with or against the wood grain. Just be sure to keep the sander level at all times. To learn more about random orbital sanders, click here. Sanding your floors is one of the most critical steps to refinish hardwood floors because it removes the old stain and turns your entire floor into a blank slate. Like any other home improvement project, you will need to take precautions to avoid back injury when transporting sanders from the rental store to your house or upstairs by always having a helper.
Use ramps to move the machine whenever possible. Harewood, get help moving heavy furniture out of the room. It has to be completely emptied before you begin. You also need to use proper form when bent over sanding, applying varnish, or cleaning up throughout the project.
Hardwood floor refinishing and sanding generates a large amount of dust and fumes. Stock up on dust masks and earplugs and, when applying sealers and oil-based polyurethane, wear NIOSH-approved organic vapor respiratorsneoprene or vinyl glovesand eye protection with splash guards.
You will also need to put up plastic sheeting to prevent the spread of dust throughout your home. Be sure to choose the right type of ohw on the desired durability and cover-up vents to keep dust at a minimum. Begin with coarse-grit sandpaper sufficient to remove the old finish and most surface scratches. Avoid using grits coarser than 60; this will help keep you from damaging the flooring.
Proceed with abrasives that are gradually finer until you reach the desired degree of smoothness. My preferred progression hardwod a hardwood floor such as oak begins with grit abrasive, ro to grit, and finishes with or grit.
Move the floor sander as what is mcat drug side effects you are mowing the lawn. You will have to make numerous passes with each grit. A palm sander may be used to sand near baseboard moldings, but use a sharp scraper or putty knife to remove any old finish areas the sander may miss. Scrapers allow you to get into recesses along board edges, at butt joints without having to remove a lot of material with the sander.
If you find a stray hair embedded in dried polyurethane and you still have at least one coat to go, lightly sand over the hair with a hxrdwood fine abrasive. Carefully dig out the hair with a pin or fingernail, if possible.
Then resand with the same very fine abrasive, taking care not to breach the stain layer. Upon recoating with poly, the hair mark will all but disappear. A sealer coat is not normally needed, but if your floor takes stain unevenly, it will help ensure even floirs coverage. Test for this by applying stain to an area that will not be visible once the furniture is moved back into place. It is essential to apply the sealer evenly.
Avoid letting the leading edge of your job dry; you will end up with lap marks stripes. Oil-based stains stay workable longer than water-based. A better way for the do-it-yourselfer is to roll on the polyurethane using a foam roller, preferably a high-density foam roller. The coat will be thin, even, and will quickly dry to a glassy smooth finish. Use a good brush for cutting in around the room perimeter.
Begin your applications along the wall opposite the door you intend to exit. Work in parallel rows toward the wall with the door. When you get close, you will have to change your work pattern and work from the end walls toward the door. This makes harvwood tough to achieve uninterrupted smoothing strokes, so apply a little extra poly and count on its self-leveling properties for a smooth finish.
Refinishing your hardwood floors may seem like a difficult task, but with the right equipment, knowledge, and time you can save a lot of money by doing this project yourself. Disclosure: BobVila.
You agree that BobVila. All rights reserved. Expert advice from Bob Vila, the most trusted name in home improvement, home remodeling, home repair, and DIY. With careful planning, the right tools, what are the functions of printer a long weekend, you can DIY refinishing hardwood floors in your home with how to finish new hardwood floors helpful tips.
Refinishing your floors? Some jobs are better left to the pros. Get free, no-commitment estimates from licensed flooring contractors near you. Find local pros.
More From Bob Vila. Project Guide: Refinishing Hardwood Floors. Quick Tip: Repairing Floorboards. How To: Polish Wood Floors. Newsletter signup: How to build built ins around fireplace agree that BobVila.
By Michelle Ullman and Bob Vila. While there are many species of hardwood fit for flooring, each with its own look and own beauty, they all share one thing in common: They need a protective finish to keep them looking their best. Choosing the right top coat for newly installed wood floors or refinishing boards that are a little worse for the wear, however, can be a little intimidating.
Hardwood floor finishes have varying levels of ease, durability, even glossiness—one of the most important aesthetic considerations after choosing your preferred wood. Make your decision a little easier by brushing up on the basics of the eight most popular types of hardwood floor finishes, all outlined below. Best for: Floors in need of a clear finish that dries quickly Pros: Easy application and cleanup; low odor and low VOCs; very smooth and shiny finish; no yellowing Cons: High-gloss water-based polyurethane magnifies every scratch and scrape.
Although water-based polyurethane sometimes looks a little milky in the can, it dries clear and resists yellowing over time. Never wax polyurethaned floors, as that can dull the finish. These are just a few of the qualities that make water-based polyurethane one of the most popular hardwood floor finishes for the home. Water-based polyurethane also scores high in the environmentally friendly category, releasing far fewer volatile organic compounds VOCs than many of the other options.
It has little odor during application, which is a big benefit if you plan on finishing the floors yourself. Best for: High-traffic areas Pros: Not too expensive; very durable; resists moisture; easy to maintain Cons: Slow drying; releases a lot of VOCs; flammable; yellows over time.
Oil-based polyurethane consists of linseed oil, synthetic resins, and plasticizers. Its strength and durability make it a popular finish for commercial properties, but many homeowners like to use it in high traffic areas inside the house, as well.
Generally, it takes eight to 10 hours for each coat to dry two to three coats total is the usual recommendation. Originally created for use in bowling alleys, moisture-cure urethane is extremely tough and durable after it dries to a very high shine.
It resists moisture, scratches, stains, and general wear. Its difficult application makes it less of an option for a do-it-yourselfer, though. Plus, the very high level of VOCs it releases can linger in the air for weeks, so all household members will need to relocate for as long as two weeks after application. An even application of this fickle finish requires a quick hand and an experienced touch.
Because of the many downsides of the finish, moisture-cure urethane is mostly used in commercial settings such as bowling alleys, dance halls, and restaurants—all places where its resistance to wear and moisture, high-gloss appearance, and strength outweigh its downsides.
Best for: Anywhere you want a low-sheen finish Pros: Easy to apply and touch up; little odor or VOCs; penetrates into wood and can be combined with stain; dries quickly and can be walked on within hours of application Cons: Application is labor-intensive; not very durable; yellows or darkens over time. Prior to the development of polyurethane finishes in the s, wax was the hardwood floor finish of choice and had been so for hundreds of years. You can even mix wood stain in with the wax to color your floors while you finish them.
Made from denatured alcohol mixed with secretions of the lac bug, an insect found in Asia, shellac has been used to seal and finish wood for hundreds of years. Shellac naturally dries to with an orange tint and high-gloss finish, although it can be bleached or tinted as well as mixed with extra denatured alcohol to create a more matte surface.
Because shellac dries quickly, it can be difficult to apply without leaving visible lap lines. Best for: Creating a low-shine finish that highlights the grain of the wood. Best for: Exotic wood floors or those with elaborate patterns, such as parquet flooring Pros: Extremely durable; dries quickly Cons: Very high VOCs; highly flammable; expensive; pro-only application. It has an alcohol base and uses acid for the curing process, creating a shiny finish that is extremely durable and resistant to chemical damage, scratches, and scuffs.
Before you select it for its resilience, know that acid-cured finishes release very high levels of VOCs and have a very strong odor. In the event that you apply it, you, your family, and your pets will need to stay elsewhere for several days while the floors cure. It also requires excellent ventilation during application, along with a full-face respirator.
Best for: High-traffic areas or anywhere you want supreme protection from wear and tear Pros: The hardest, most long-lasting type of finish; low maintenance; available in several levels of glossiness Cons: Difficult to touch up or refinish; only available on prefinished wood planks. Aluminum oxide is a naturally occurring mineral that provides an extremely long-lasting protective coating on hardwood floors. It protects the floor from scratches , fading, water damage, scuffs, and general wear and tear without changing the color of the wood or hiding its grain.
Disclosure: BobVila. You agree that BobVila. All rights reserved. Expert advice from Bob Vila, the most trusted name in home improvement, home remodeling, home repair, and DIY. Whether you're protecting brand-new wood floors or refinishing ones that are decades old, the task starts with selecting the right top coat.
Get to know the differences between eight popular finishes to decide which one works best for your project. Refinishing your floors? Some jobs are better left to the pros. Get free, no-commitment estimates from licensed flooring contractors near you. Find local pros. More From Bob Vila. Helpful Hints for Refinishing Hardwood Floors. Newsletter signup: You agree that BobVila.